Look for a bright green coloring. A healthy American tree frog will be a light lime green to a dark olive or emerald green, with a creamy white to yellow stripe on their sides and creamy white belly. They will change color slightly as a means of camouflage and to indicate mood changes. Look for frogs that have bright eyes and seem alert. Avoid frogs with brown spots, dull skin, or dry skin. Extreme changes in color, like turning yellow-green or dark brown, can indicate stress or illness.
Certain varieties of frogs are dangerous when housed with other types, which will be very stressful to your frog. Frogs are also cannibalistic so a small frog could be lunch for a larger frog.
Males are usually smaller than females and have yellow or greenish-yellow throats. At about 1 year of age, males will begin to call. The call gradually becomes louder and louder, and lasts about 20 seconds. Females are usually larger than males, and they have creamy white throats. Females don’t call all the time, although they will make a short brief response call to a male. They will also sometimes call in distress when they are annoyed by being handled or by another frog sitting on them.
A lengthy quarantine time is necessary because symptoms of sickness or parasites do not always appear right away.
You will need to buy an aquarium with no less than a 10 gallon capacity. If you want to go larger, your frog will appreciate it. Try to find an enclosure that is taller than it is wide, because tree frogs prefer to have vertical mobility. Add a screened lid on top for good ventilation. If you have other animals in the house, get one you can lock in order to keep your frogs safe.
A good substrate is Astroturf, which you can find at hardware stores and sometimes pet stores. You can also use reptile carpeting, found at pet stores.
Artificial cage furniture is easy to clean, and you can find a wide variety of specialized items online or at your local pet store.
Soak outdoor items in a mild bleach and water solution overnight (one part bleach to three parts water). Remove the items from the bleach, and soak them in clean water for an additional night. Allow them to air dry thoroughly before adding them to the aquarium. This should kill any bacteria or bugs that may harm your frog. Smell each item before placing it in the enclosure, to be sure the items are not releasing any fumes.
Another option is to use air plants, living plants that do not require soil or water – they thrive with just an occasional misting. Just be sure to protect them from harsh, direct sunlight or heat lamps, so they won’t dry out. [6] X Research source Sufficient foliage provides “cover” for your frog, helping it to feel safe and secure.
Be sure to clean your frog’s water bowl daily – or whenever you notice it is dirty – to prevent bacterial infections.
Never use an under-tank heater with a wooden enclosure, as this may cause a fire. Try placing a rock over the heated area of the terrarium floor, which will absorb heat. Your frog may enjoy sitting on the heated rock. If you use an overhead heat source, be sure there is a screen lid to the tank between your frog and the heating bulb.
The daytime temperature of the habitat at the warmest spot (by the heater) should be about 78 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter and about 80 degrees in the summer. The rest the tank (the areas not immediately surrounding the heater) should be about 76 Fahrenheit degrees in winter, 78 degrees in summer. At night, you should keep the habitat around 70 degrees in winter, 75 degrees in summer. Keep the humidity in the tank around 30% in the winter, and 35% in the summer. Hang temperature strips and humidity gauges in the terrarium to maintain proper levels.
Females are quieter than males, but it is best to prepare for your frog to make noise sometimes. Frogs may also chirp at vacuum cleaners, running water, lawnmowers, and certain TV commercials. Males may make loud calls during a falling barometer, so your frog might warn you when it’s about to rain.
Frogs have permeable skin – they drink water as well as breathe through their skin. Always use Reverse Osmosis (RO) or distilled water for your frogs. Standard tap water, even if dechlorinated, will still have heavy metals and other contaminants which can harm your critters.
Try to feed your frog insects that are no larger than the width between its eyes. Don’t feed your frog bugs you catch outdoors, because they may be infested with parasites or full of poisonous pesticides. Some insects are toxic for frogs. Never feed your pet frog ladybugs, stinkbugs, millipedes or praying mantis.
Bear in mind that frogs eat live prey. If you are squeamish about putting live insects into your frog’s habitat, you may want to consider a different type of pet. Try feeding your frog caterpillar larvae, such as wax worms, horn worms, and silkworms. You can also feed your frog the occasional small earthworm or red wiggler.
If you need to handle your frog in order to clean his habitat, always wet your hands with de-chlorinated water (water from a water bottle. ) The natural oils in your skin can be toxic to frogs. Avoid using chemicals to clean. When cleaning the frog’s enclosure, never use chemicals. Even trace amounts of chemicals can burn your frog’s skin, or even kill him.
