Arboreal and terrestrial tanks are your two best bets. The former provides room for climbing, the latter has a wide base. [2] X Research source
Don’t use small substrates like sand, gravel, or pine shavings - your frog could ingest these when they’re diving for prey, and this could lead to death.
Use a 2. 0 UVB light bulb. These are great for use with live reptiles and amphibians, as they mimic natural light.
Keep humidity levels low by making sure the tank stays dry and has a fully exposed mesh lid. [5] X Research source Keep humidity levels high by misting the tank, keeping the substrate damp, or covering 2/3 of the mesh lid with plastic. [6] X Research source
Don’t mist too much - a soggy tank will be unsuitable for a White’s tree frog. [7] X Research source
Frogs reach adulthood when they are no longer in the tadpole stage. Your frog will be adult when it has developed legs and its tail has re-absorbed into its body. [9] X Research source You can feed your adult White’s tree frog the occasional pinkie mouse as a treat. Mice are high in fat, so refrain from giving pinkie mice to your adult frog too often to avoid health complications. [10] X Research source Dust the live food with reptile calcium powder and reptile multivitamin supplements once a week. [11] X Research source
You can even wear latex gloves as a protective barrier if you must handle your frog.
