Inspecting your chain with your bike’s wheels facing upwards will make it more comfortable for you to inspect and work on. If you don’t have a rack, simply lean your bike upright against a wall.
The master link for a bike is specific to the chain size and brand. If your bike does not have a master link, you can install one yourself or have it done at your local bike shop. This installation is usually inexpensive, costing about $15 in most cases. If your bike does not have a master link and you prefer not to have one installed, order a chain-tool to remove the chain. They’re inexpensive and essential pieces of equipment. [2] X Research source
If you are using a chain tool, you can still benefit from proper chain positioning. Some parts of your chain will be dirtier or have more wear than others. A clear segment of chain positioned at the midpoint between the wheels will be easiest to remove with your chain tool. [3] X Research source
Set the chain tool on the link you are trying to remove so it aligns with one of the round holes to either side of the link. Screw the chain tool so it moves through the hole. This will push out the pin that is keeping that link together. Try not to push the pin completely free of the link. This will make it difficult, or in some cases impossible, to reassemble that link of the chain. You’ll often feel a popping or snapping when the pin pushes free of the link. This is a good indicator that the link has been disengaged. Some chain tools are only intended for certain sized links, though some can be used on several different sizes of chain. Check the instructions on your chain tool before using it. [4] X Research source
Bike chains can be bought at your local bike shop or, in some cases, your local hardware store.
Count the number of links if your new chain is longer than the old. This will be the number of links you need to remove. If your chain has snapped and it is unreliable to measure your new chain, you can remove links after feeding the chain into the drivetrain of your bike. [6] X Research source
Positioning the ends of your chain at the bottom midpoint between the wheels of your bike will make it more accessible and allow gravity to keep the chain on the bike until you can secure it. [7] X Research source
When removing extra links, avoid popping the pin holding them together completely free of the link. This will make it difficult to reattach the link if you shorten it too much. [8] X Research source For the best ride, you’ll need the chain to be strung tautly between the wheels in its lowest gear. [9] X Research source
You should feel a click or a pop when the pin of a master link slides into place. You can also pull on the chain to either side of the link to securely seat the pin of the master link in place.
Cycle the suspension by sitting on the saddle and bouncing up and down a few times to test your chain length. To protect your chain from the elements and to help it run smoothly in your drive train, you should lubricate your chain with a suitable bicycle chain lubricant.
Most chain wear indicators will have a sticker that establishes the values for a worn chain and an unworn chain. If your wear indicator does not, check the box it came in for these values. If you do not have a wear indicator, you can perform a hand check of the chain. Use moderate pressure to lift a section of your chain from the chainring of your bike with your fingers. A small gap should form between the chain and the ring. If you can clearly see through the gap over three or four teeth, your chain is worn. [10] X Research source
Try to touch the ends of the chain together while keeping the holes facing up and down. Over time, chains are bent by the action of your bikes derailleur. Note the amount of sideways flex in your chain. A worn chain will have a great deal flexion. Newer chains resist touching and only arc slightly. [11] X Research source
