Trickle, or fully manual, chargers are the easiest type to use. These chargers take the AC power and convert it to DC. However, you will have to turn these charger off or else they will keep pumping energy into the charger. Float chargers are another common type of charger. They provide a constant, gentle, current to the battery. Smart chargers monitor battery charge progress. This type of charger also minimizes damage to the battery as they stop charging when the battery is full. Unfortunately, smart chargers don’t typically work well with lithium batteries.
Removing the battery is a tricky operation. Read the manual before you do anything else. The manual will tell you where the battery is, how to access it, and how to disconnect it. Every motorbike is different so reading the manual is a must.
The process of battery charging creates hydrogen gas, a highly flammable substance. Overcharging also produces hydrogen sulfide, which is incredibly bad for you. Non-smart chargers will need to be constantly monitored so you can make sure they don’t overcharge the battery.
Turn the multimeter onto the 20V DC section of the scale. With the bike completely off, touch the black lead to the negative post of the battery and the red lead to the positive post. Then record the voltage. [4] X Research source If the voltage measured 12. 73 volts or better, then your battery is charged and ready to go. Anything between 12. 06 volts and 12. 62 volts means you battery needs to be charged for longer. Anything less than 12. 06 volts and your battery might be ruined, but you can try charging it more.
The battery should now be working properly again.
The car battery will not fry your motorcycle battery. For that to happen, the leads would need to be connected and the motorbike would have to be running for a very long time.
Metal doesn’t just mean parts of either vehicle. It means all metal. Rings, necklaces, hand tools and everything metal.
The reason the black clamp is being connected to the frame and not the battery is because connecting it to the battery could destroy the battery.
Leave the bike on for a few minutes so the engine can warm up.
Leave the bike running until you arrive home or until you can bring it to a mechanic.
Check the ignition kill switch is set to “stop” and not to “run. ” Make sure you have enough fuel. It seems obvious but these things can be easily missed. If the kickstand is down, an inbuilt safety feature of the bike might be preventing it from starting. If the motorbike isn’t in neutral, it won’t start. If it’s none of these issues, then chances are that it’s the battery at fault.
If you can’t find a hill or an adequate slope, you’ll need to push the bike at pace before climbing on and releasing the clutch.
Putting the gear in second or third allows for the smoothest start and a smaller likelihood of things going wrong.
If the bike doesn’t start, try again but roll the bike faster. It might take a couple of attempts for it to work.
